Wednesday, February 12, 2014

The Long History Of Jodhpurs

By Jerri Perry


Today jodhpurs are mainly worn for horseback riding, but throughout history they have been traditional oriental garb for men, part of military uniforms, and preferred wear for motorcycle police and Hollywood movie directors. They have even entered the world of high fashion now and then, depending on the whim of designers and the activities of high profile celebrities. Today they are worn for informal English-style riding, by child riders, and as formal show wear for Saddlebred competitions.

What became known as the jodhpur pant was loose at the hip and thigh, tight below the knee, and extended to the ankle. This style was traditional male garb in the orient and well-suited to riding, with freedom of movement for hip and thigh and a snug fit at the legs to give a good grip and minimize chafing. Modern stretch pants can give freedom of movement without the flare, which is why that distinctive look has disappeared.

Sir Pratap Singh, an avid polo player from the Indian province of Jodhpur, brought his team to England for the Queen's Jubilee celebration. The players wore their traditional garb, which became a fad for polo-playing English. They preferred their tall boots, however, and adapted the style, keeping the flare but changing the legs to end at mid-calf, to allow tall boots to be pulled over them. These are called breeches and are still used for riding today.

This adaptation was adopted by the rest of the equestrian world, especially after the 1920s when women began to ride astride. It became a familiar look for military staff officers in the west, in Nazi Germany, and in the USSR. Tall boots were part of this sartorial symbol of authority. Motorcycle police also stomp around in tall boots, but the fact that the flare was retained until recently made many think that they were wearing jodhpurs.

Full-length pants are good for children, because they grow too fast to make buying high boots practical. Instructors also say that this style of riding pant lets them see the position of the leg, thus helping children learn the correct position. The riding world is fairly strict on etiquette, and many horse enthusiasts prefer to see children dressed in jodhpurs even if money is no object.

Adults also often wear them with low boots and half-chaps or leggings, which protect the lower leg from chafing against the stirrup leathers. They make good work clothes around the barn. Riders seldom want to wear their tall, highly-polished boots for stable chores.

Jodphur construction includes knee patches, which offer further chafe protection and improve the rider's grip. Many also have a seat patch of some non-slip material to help the rider stay in the saddle. Modern styles may have the seat and the entire inner leg covered with leather suede or another material. Seams are on the outside of the leg, to minimize rubbing and extend the life of the garment.

Beige and white are the traditional colors, but colored and patterned jodhpurs are available for for fun and informal occasions. Saddleseat competition calls for dark-colored jods with flared cuffs that cover the heel of the rider's boots. Go online for all the new styles and features of this century-old style.




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